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Hobitantsijate treeningrõivaste kollektsiooni koostamine ettevõttele Tallinn Dolls OÜ

Treimann, Gerda Marie (2019) Hobitantsijate treeningrõivaste kollektsiooni koostamine ettevõttele Tallinn Dolls OÜ. [thesis] [en] Creating a Collection of Hobby Dancers Training Clothes for Tallinn Dolls OÜ.

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Abstract

Lõputöö eesmärgiks oli luua hobitantsijate treeningrõivaste kollektsioon ettevõttele Tallinn Dolls OÜ. Antud lõputöö puhul on sihtgrupiks hobitantsijad, kes harrastavad soolo ladinatantse, mille tantsimisel kantakse kleite ning seelikuid. Kavandati ning toodeti kaks body mudelit ning üks kleidi mudel. Kleidi mudeli kavandamisel sooviti anda tantsijale võimalikult palju liikumisvabadust ning otsustati hõlmikkleidi kasuks. Hõlmikkleidi plussiks võib tuua, et tantsija saab reguleerida kleidi laiust, vajadusel tõmmata tugevamini keha ümber või vastupidi lõdvemaks lasta. Body mudelid valiti tootmiseks kuna need on kergelt kombineeritavad erinevate pükste või seelikute mudelitega. Lõputöös käsitletud mudelite põhilõigete konstrueerimiseks kasutati Müller & Sohni konstrueerimismeetodit ning ettevõttes Tallinn Dolls kasutusel olevat saksa tüüpfiguuride tabelit. Mudelitele “Rombi” ja “Vbody” konstrueeriti body ning varruka põhilõiked ning mudelile “Miila”, kleidi põhilõige, tuletati moekohased lõiked. Mudeli “Vbody” krae lõige saadi mulaaži meetodil. Toodetele õmmeldi maketid ning vastavalt proovis leitud vigadele parandati lõiget. Toodete paljundusskeem loodi suurustele 34-42. Lekaalid on koostatud programmis Optitex PDS 15. Toodete õmblemiseks valitud kangad on ettevõtte Tallinn Dolls OÜ-s juba olemas olevad kangad. Mudelid on õmmeldud venivatest trikotaažkangastest, mis annavad sportimisel liikumisvabaduse. Lõputöös on ka käsitletud teoreetilist materjali treeningrõivasteks sobilike kangaste kohta. Käesolevas lõputöös käsitletud mudelite tehnoloogia valiti vastavalt ettevõtte Tallinn Dolls OÜ-s kasutatavale tehnoloogiale arvestades toote ning valitud kanga omadusi. Peatükis 3 on kirjeldatud tehnoloogia valikut ning on toodud tehnoloogilised läbilõikejoonised. Valminud lekaalidele koostati paigutusjoonised arvestamaks ühe toote kanga- ning abimaterjalide kulu. Paigutusjoonised koostati kolmele suurusele programmis Optitex marker 15. Mudeli “Rombi” tootmiseks kulub keskmiselt 1 meeter põhikangaid, 103,6 meetrit niiti ning 1,33 meetrit kummikanti. Mudeli “Vbody” tootmiseks kulub keskmiselt 1 meeter põhikangaid ning dubleermaterjale, 183,6 meetrit niiti, 0,8 meetrit kummikanti ning 0,2 meetrit silikoonpaela. Mudeli “Miila” tootmiseks kulub keskmiselt 1,713 meetrit põhikangast ning dubleermaterjale, 203,1 meetrit niiti ning 2,7 meetrit silikoonpaela. Põhimaterjalide paigutuste efektiivsused jäid 60,6%- 79,3% vahemikku ning dubleermaterjalidel 27,7%-46,7 vahemikku. Efektiivsusprotsendi tõstmiseks tuleb suurendada välja lõigatavate toodete kogust. Materjalide kulu arvestati toote hinna kujundamiseks. Kolmele mudelile arvestati omahind ning müügihind. Mudeli “Rombi” omahind on 10,27 € , mudeli “Vbody” omahind on 11,59 € ning mudeli “Miila” omahinnaks kujunes 16,73 €. Toodete omahinda arvestati müügihinna kujundamisel, mudelite “Rombi” ja “Vbody” müügihinnaks kujunes 90 € ning mudelil “Miila”120 €. Keskmiseks juurdehindlusprotsendiks kujunes 47,46 %. Valminud mudelitega tuleks teostada testkandmisi, et testiga mudelite kandmismugavust treeningutel ning kangaid tuleks testida värvipüsivusele higi toimel, elastsust ning venivust ja pillingukindlust. Kangaste tekst. Mudeli “Miila” puhul võiks katsetada ka mudeli disaini muudatust.

Abstract [en]

The aim of this thesis is to create a collection of training clothes for hobby dancers. The target group is hobby dancers, who practice solo Latin dances. Skirts and dresses are used to practice Latin dances. Two body models and one dress model were designed and produced. Freedom of movement was considered to be the main feature when designing the dress model. A wrap dress was designed. One of the advantages of a wrap dress is that it can be adjusted according to the needs of the dancer. Two body models were chosen for production due to their ease of styling with different trouser or skirt models. Müller and Sohn construction system and German size table were used to create the Basic patterns for the body and dress models. For models „Rombi“ and „Vbody“ body and sleeve patterns were created and for model „Miila“ body pattern were created from which modified patterns were derived. Mock-ups were sewn for all of the models and then tried on. The patterns were improved according to the problems found when trying on the mock-ups. Pattern grading was created for sizes 34-42. patterns were digitally made using Optitex PDS 15 software. The fabrics for sewing the products were chosen from the fabric selection of the company Tallinn Dolls. The dress and body models are made from stretchy Jersey fabrics, which give freedom of movement when exercising. The technology used to make dress and body models was chosen according to the technology used in the company Tallinn Dolls OÜ considering the characteristics of models and used fabrics. In order to calculate the cost of fabric and trimmings, cutting plans were formed. Cutting plans were formed for three sizes using Optitex Marker 15 software. In average 1 meters of fabric and 195,4 meters of thread were used to sew both of the body models. For the model „Miila“ 1,7 meters of fabric and 203,1 meters of thread were used. The average efficiency for the main fabrics were 69,9%, efficiency can be increased by adding more details to be cut out. The price of the models were brought out in the economical part. Expenses of fabric and production were calculated, prices for „Rombi“ is 10,27 €, „Vbody“ 11,59 € and „Miila“ 16,73 €. The asking price for these models were, with added 47,46 % average mark-up and 20% VAT, accordingly for body models 90 € and the dress model 120 €. Further testing should be conducted for these models to test wear comfort during exercise. Fabrics should be tested as well. For the model „Miila“ a slight design alteration should be considered as well.

Item Type: thesis
Advisor: Teele Peets
Co-advisor: Ailen Põld
Subjects: Clothing and Textiles > Design > Patternmaking
Divisions: Institute of Clothing and Textiles > Clothing Design and Technology
Depositing User: Gerda Marie Treimann
Date Deposited: 06 Jun 2019 07:48
Last Modified: 06 Jun 2019 07:48
URI: http://eprints.tktk.ee/id/eprint/4577

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