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Villaste mantlite erinevad soojustusviisid

Künnapu, Steffi (2019) Villaste mantlite erinevad soojustusviisid. [thesis] [en] Types of Thermal Insulation for Wool Coats.

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Abstract

Käesoleva lõputöö käigus uuriti ülerõivaste soojustusviise. Tähelepanu pöörati keha reaktsioonidele külmaga kokkupuutumisel ning viisidele, kuidas keha soojust saab või kaotab. Vastavalt keha soojuse saamis- ja kaotamisviisidele vaadeldi ajaloolist arengut erinevatel termilise kaitse tehnoloogiatel. Soojustusviiside uurimustest tehti järeldused ning selle põhjal kavandati kaks erineva soojustusviisiga villast talvemantlit meestele. Individuaal tellimustööna valminud villaste mantlite soojustusviisideks oli tuuletõkke kanga kasutus ja infrapunakiirgust peegeldav lisasoojustusvest. Mõlemad mudelid kavandati pintsaku lõikelised pöörates tähelepanu eesmärgile leida soojustus ülikonnaga kantavatele villastele mantlitele. Mantlitele valiti soojuspidavad kangad arvestades Eesti kliima muutlikusega. Põhikonstruktsioonid valmistati Müller&Sohn meeste mantli konstrueerimissüsteemi baasil Põhikonstruktsiooni paljundati Saksa tüüpfiguuride standardi põhjal. Mantlite lõiked valmistati klientide figuurimõõtude ja keha hoiaku järgi paljundatud lõike suurustest. Saadud lõigetele valmistati lekaalid. Individuaal tellimustööna valminud meeste talvemantlid toodeti ateljees. Õmblustehnoloogilistele sõlmedele koostati läbilõikejoonised kirjeldamaks tuuletõkkega soojustatud mantli töötlemist. Lõputöös leiti kavandatud mudelitele umbkaudne müügihind. Mantlite müügihinnaks, kui tooted on toodetud väikeateljees kujunes 1185€ ja 1265€. Villastele mantlitele on valitud soojustusviisid vastavalt Eesti turul kättesaadavatele materjalidele. Paljusid uuritud soojustusviise pole võimalik kasutada, kuna tehnoloogiad on patendeeritud ning kasutamiseks vaid kindlatele firmadele. Tuuletõkega voodri kinnitamine osutus keerulisemaks, kui autor eeldas. Kolme libeda kihi õmblemisel katteriide külge polnud võimalik kõiki kihte korralikult lihtühendusõmblusmasina all kontrollida. Voodri kihitde tuuletõkkega kokku teppimine või katteriidest väljaulatuva sisetaskute osa disaini muutmine võivad lihtsustada voodri kinnitamist. Lisasoojustusvestile seljakeskõmbluse lisamine parandaks vesti istuvust. Seljakeskjoone õmblusele saaks tuua osa vööjoonel asuvast sissevõttest. Lisasoojustusvesti kinnitamine mantli külge nööpkinnisega võib tekitada ebamugavust. Võimalik tekkiv ebamugavus on tingitud nööpide suurusest ning mantli liibuvusest. Probleemi lahenduseks pakub autor välja edaspidiselt lisasoojustusvestide kinnitamiseks kasutatada kahepoolse tõmblukuga peitkinnist. Lõputöös kavandatud meeste villased mantlid lähevad kasutusse 2019. aasta talvel ning peale seda on võimalik saada tagasisidet mantlite mugavusest ning valitud soojustusmaterjalide vastupidavusest ja soojushoidvusest. Saadud tagasiside põhjal saab kavandatud toodete funktsionaalsust parandada järgnevatel toodetavatel lisasoojustusega meeste mantlitel.

Abstract [en]

Following graduation thesis Types of Thermal Insulation for Wool Coats covers different thermal insulation and ways to use these types for insulating woolen coats. The thesis mainly focuses on men’s outerwear and aims to find better insulation for overcoats. The thesis comprises three main chapters. In the first chapter, the focus is on the body’s reaction to temperature changes and ways in which the human body absorbs or loses temperature. Historic ways and developments in thermal protection were examined. As a result of researching thermal insulation methods, two different insulation were used to develop two different men’s overcoats. Thermal insulation methods used for custom-made overcoats are insulation material that blocks wind flow and removable warmer with wadded infrared reflective fabric. Both coats are designed Chesterfield style, with the intent to give thermal protection while wearing a suit. Fabrics were picked bearing in mind the Estonian climate fluctuation. The second chapter of the thesis concentrates on the construction and assembly of insulated overcoats. Block patterns of the coats were made using the Müller&Sohn pattern construction system. Patterns were graded based on the German men’s size designation of clothes. Then graded block patterns were altered to the client’s body-measurements for custom fitting patterns. Seam allowances, notches, and baselines were added to the patterns. In addition, technological seam type diagrams were used to describe cross-section plans of the seams of the garment and the positioning of thermal insulation between layers. The last chapter of the thesis covers calculations of the sale price for insulated winter coats. The sale prices of the custom-tailored coats are €1185 for the overcoat with thermal protection material and 1077,7€ for the overcoat with the removable warmer. Fabrics used to make these overcoats were selected on the basis of availability in the Estonian market. Most of the insulation approaches cannot be used because they are patented, or the rights of use belong only to specific companies. It is concluded in the making process of the products that there are some adjustments to be made. For example, joining the thermal insulation material between lining layers proved to be more complicated than expected at first. While sewing three layers of silky fabrics to the outer layer, it proved to be complicated to control all the layers under the sewing machine. The solution to the problem could be quilting the thermal protection material between lining layers or changing the design of the breast pocket. Adding back seam to the warmer would improve the fit of the coat. The dart constructed inside the side seam could be moved to balance the intake on the waistline better. Fastening the warmer to the outer layer with buttons may prove to be uncomfortable. To solve the problem, the author would use double sided zippers to fasten the warmer. The woolen overcoats made in this thesis will be used in the winter this year. After that, a final hypothesis can be made about the materials and methods used, as well as the comfort. Using the feedback, a more functional and better product can be designed.

Item Type: thesis
Advisor: Margit Kuusk
Subjects: Clothing and Textiles > History of Clothing and Textile Goods
Clothing and Textiles > Design > Fashion Composition
Clothing and Textiles > Product Development
Divisions: Institute of Clothing and Textiles > Clothing Design and Technology
Depositing User: Steffi Künnapu
Date Deposited: 05 Jun 2019 10:37
Last Modified: 26 Aug 2019 08:35
URI: http://eprints.tktk.ee/id/eprint/4573

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