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Eestis disainitud rõivaste väärindamisvõimaluste kaardistamine ja analüüs MTÜ uuskasutuskeskuse näitel

Kotov, Katariina (2019) Eestis disainitud rõivaste väärindamisvõimaluste kaardistamine ja analüüs MTÜ uuskasutuskeskuse näitel. [thesis] [en] Mapping and Analyzing the Possibilities of Valorization for Estonian Design Clothing based on NGO Uuskasutuskeskus.

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Abstract

Antud lõputöö eesmärgiks oli analüüsida ja kaardistada väärindamist vajavate Eesti disaini rõivaste väärindamisvõimalusi. Analüüs andis ülevaate rõivaste seisukorrast ja taastamise võimalikkusest. Teema on aktuaalne kuna tekstiilitööstuse mõju keskkonnale on suurem kui eales ja tarbimise tagajärjel on tekkinud suur hulk jäätmeid ja alakasutatud rõivaid. Tekstiiliringlusest rääkides on laiemalt levinud teema tekstiilijäätmete ümbertöötlus, vähem räägitakse või propageeritakse olemasolevate rõivaste parandamisest. Uuskasutuskeskus on Eesti tekstiiliringluses märkimisväärne osa. Annetusi kogudes ja nende ringlusesse saates päästetakse prügimäele sattumisest iga aasta ligi 1600 tonni rõivaid. Väärindamist vajava kauba analüüs näitas seda, et paljud tooted, mis esialgu ei vasta Uuskasutuskeskuse nõuetele, on hea kvaliteediga ja neid väärindades oleks võimalik need korduvkasutuseks ringlusesse saata. Uurimustöö käigus läbi viidud kauba analüüs, testid ja intervjuud näitasid, et kauba väärindamine on suures osas tulemuslik ja väärindamist juurutades oleks Uuskasutuskeskusel võimalus saata ringlusesse hinnanguliselt 97% nõuetele mitte vastavatest rõivastest. Väärindamiseks vajalikud tegevused on õmblemine, pesemine ja viimistlemine. Kuna viimistlemisega on võimalik tegeleda poodides ja laos koha peal, siis just pesemise ja õmblemise juurutamisel on vajalik langetada otsus kas seda teha ning kui jah, siis kuidas tegevused lahendada- kas ettevõttesiseselt või allhanget kasutades. Kuna Uuskasutuskeskus on sotsiaalne ettevõte, siis uurides võimalusi väärindamise läbiviimiseks, koguti andmeid lisaks traditsioonilisele parandus-või puhastusteenuse kasutamisele ka hoolekande asutuste kaasamise võimalikkusest. Oma tegevustega aidatakse suuresti kaasa kohalikule tekstiiliringlusele ja taaskasutuse sõnumi levitamisele. Küll aga oleks Uuskasutuskeskuse võimalused ja mõjukus suurem, kui firma tegevustesse panustaksid ka hetkel rõivatootmisega tegelevad asutused. “Eesti disain“ projekti käigus kogutud Eesti brändide rõivaste analüüs näitas, et 70% olid Eesti kaubamärgi Baltika toodang ja tulemustega viidi kurssi ka Baltika esindajad. Nii tollase projekti käigus toimunud suhtlus kui ka antud lõputöö raames läbi viidud intervjuu näitasid Baltika poolset huvi alustada kasutatud rõivaste KOKKUVÕTE 55 jäätmekäitlusest eemale suunamisega. Arvestades Baltika osakaalu rõivatööstuses ja kaubamärgi tuntust, oleks see suur samm teadlikuma tarbimise propageerimiseks Eestis. Nii tekstiilide ringluses kui ka väärindamisel on oluline ettevõtete omavahelise suhtluse ja võrgustiku loomine. Kuna tekstiilitööstus koosneb mitmetest erinevatest osapoolest, on ressursitõhusate lahenduste eelduseks sujuv koostöö. Vastutustundlikult peaksid käituma nii rõivatootjad kui ka tarbijad ning riik peaks tekitama tingimused, kus tarbimise puhul on eelistatud variant taaskasutatud tooted ja äride loomisel ja toimimisel ringmajanduse mudel.

Abstract [en]

The title of the thesis is „Mapping and Analyzing the Possibilities of Valorization for Estonian Design Clothing based on NGO Uuskasutuskeskus“. The topic of clothing industry waste is becoming increasingly talked about and for great reason. The impact of textile industry can not be ignored anymore, as the resources are running out and the consumption of clothing does not show any signs of slowing down, rather the opposite. The main reason for this is the fast-fashion trend that has taken over the fashion industry. The saturated market is filled with low-priced low quality products, with little to no emotional value, which leads to premature disposing of clothes. Low quality leads to fast wear and tear and also the inability to repair the items as the repair needed is often so extensive, therefore it is more resourceful to either recycle the product, or in worst cases just throw it away. Even when the clothes are in good condition, they still end up in the landfills, hence a clothing gathering, sorting and recycling infrastucture is yet to be established in Estonia as well as globally. For this reason, the non-profit organisation Uuskasutuskeskus was founded in 2004, Tallinn, Estonia. Knowing that Estonian people do not have a place to take their used but usable belongings the founders of the non-profit decided to open a re-sell center to help the circulation of already existing products. The company is functioning on a circular business model and is self-supporting. Over the years tonnes of commodities have been directed away from landfills into usage. Though Uuskasutuskeskus accepts used good, there are still requierments about the donations to be made- these items should be clean, re-usable and without tearmarks. The standars are made clear in the shops, as well as on their website but damaged goods still end up in the donations. To get a better understanding of the content of the donations a project called „Estonian design“ was conducted in 2017-2018 where Estonian design products were separated from the donations. The purpose of this project was to see the quality of the donated clothes and to bring attention to the re-use of Estonian design. In this project 2926 products were gathered and the analysis showed that 19% SUMMARY 57 of them need valorization in order to be sold for reuse at the Uuskasutuskeskus shops. This means that 19% of the products checked were in good state but with some ravelling seams, holes, stains, pilling or some other defects, and therefore were not ready for sale due to their current condition. The clothing in need of valorization is also the research sample for this thesis. The primary purpose of this thesis is to determine clothing valorization possibilities, including the processes, tools and possible service providers. The findings of this thesis are based on interviews, experiments and the analysis of 486 faulty products. In order to discover which operations are needed to valorize clothes, the content of the defective Estonian design products had to be mapped. Further, an analysis of the defects was conducted to determine wether the valorization processes will be effective or not. Once the data was analysed, different companies including sewing and washing service providers as well as social welfare institutions were contacted to gather information about the service possibilties of different companies. The analysis and experiments on the clothing items provided positive results, as many of the defects turned out as maintainable. An estimated 97% of the clothes could be re-sold at Uuskasutuskeskus through various valorizing processes. However, if the company decides to implement valorization, the next desicion will be to choose wether to use out-sourcing or to create in-house solutions and for this, further research is needed. In conclusion, valorization is something that Uuskasutuskeskus may find profitable both economically and enviromentally. Valorizing extends the life of clothing and is considered to have the biggest impact to reduce the harmful effects of the fashion Industry. However, not only re-use centres should be concerned about this issue but also the companies who are currently producing clothing as well as the governement. A well established infrastructure is needed to connect the manufacturers and consumers.

Item Type: thesis
Advisor: Evelin Vaab
Subjects: Clothing and Textiles > Technology and Textile Science
Clothing and Textiles > Field Studies
Divisions: Institute of Clothing and Textiles > Resource Management in the Clothing and Textiles Industry
Depositing User: Katariina Kotov
Date Deposited: 06 Jun 2019 09:01
Last Modified: 26 Aug 2019 08:34
URI: http://eprints.tktk.ee/id/eprint/4570

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