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Meeste triiksärgile body arendamine

Sannik, Kaidi (2019) Meeste triiksärgile body arendamine. [thesis] [en] Body Development for Men's Shirt.

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Abstract

Triiksärk on meeste rõivastuses tähtsal kohal, kuid kandjate elutempo kiirenemisel ja spordimoe populaarsuse tõusmisega kahaneb särgi praktilisus. Toote üheks probleemiks on särgi pükstest välja tõusmine ja seetõttu peab kandja seda pidevalt kohandama. Turul on mõningaid variante probleemi lahendamiseks särgihoidjate näol, kuid need on klientidele raskesti kättesaadavad ja toote miinusena peab seda iga särgi jaoks eraldi külge sättima, mis võib osutuda tülikaks ja aeganõudvaks. Naiste- ja tantsurõivastes on levinud lahenduseks särgi pükstest välja tõusmise vastu body detaili lisamine särgile. Sama lahendus võib sobida ka meeste triiksärgi liigse liikumise takistamiseks. Antud lõputöös testiti body sobivust meeste triiksärgile kahe mudeli näol- põhikangast body detailiga „Body“ ja trikotaažist mudeliga „Triko.body“. Mülleri süsteemi kasutades loodi brief aluspesule baseeruv body põhilõige, sellele tehti vastavad muudatused, et sobitada detailid triiksärgiga, ning lisati proovides välja tulnud parandused. Mudelit „Body“ toodeti 5 tk ja mudelit „Triko.body“ 2 tk. Toodete valmistamise tehnoloogia valikul lähtuti OÜ Maidiga-s kasutusel olevatest tehnoloogiatest ja töömeetoditest. Masstoodangu tarbeks toodi välja mudelite töötlemise tehnoloogilised järjestused mille käigus leiti, et nii mudel „Body“ kui ka „Triko.body“ koosnevad 53-st jagamatust operatsioonist. Mudeli „Body“ tootmisel viidi läbi ajauuringud liinil, mille tulemusel leiti, et toote valmistamiseks kulub 50 min ja 17,50 sekundit puhast tööaega. Mudeli valmistamiseks on vaja sooritada 9 tööetappi rohkem kui klassikalise triiksärgi valmistamiseks, ning need võtavad aega 8 minutit ja 5 sekundit. Samuti leiti toodete valmistamiseks vajaminevate materjalide kulu ja võrreldi neid klassikalise triiksärgiga. Kõige kulukamaks osutus mudel „Body“, seejärel „Triko.body“ ja kõige väiksema materjali kuluga on klassikaline triiksärk. Turu valmisoleku ja huvi välja selgitamiseks body detailiga särgi vastu viidi läbi tarbijaküsitlus, milles osales 37 meesterahvast. Selgus, et kõigi küsitluses vastanute garderoobist võib leida triiksärgi ja 75,7% eelistavad kanda särki pükstes. Särgihoidjaid on proovinud vaid kaks vastajat, 44 seega on valdava osa vastanute jaoks triiksärgi pükstest välja tõusmise probleem lahendamata. Küsimustikust ei tulnud selgelt välja kas potentsiaalsed kliendid eelistaksid pigem mudelit „Body“ või „Triko.body“. See võib tuleneda vastajate teadmatusest, kuna kiirmoes pole antud lahendust varasemalt meeste toodete puhul kasutatud. Proovimata on raske ette kujutada kuidas toode seljas istuks ning kas see oleks mugav. 50% vastanutest on huvitatud toote proovimisest, 50% aga hetkel mitte. Loodud mudelite kohta täpsema tagasiside saamiseks viidi läbi testkandmised, milles osales 5 noormeest. Tulemused olid positiivsed, kõik osalenud leidsid, et antud toode lahendaks nende jaoks särgi pükstest välja tulemise probleemi ja nad oleksid tulevikus huvitatud toote ostmisest. Lisaks andsid testijad tagasisidet mida toote puhul edasi arendada, välja toodi probleem toote pikkusega ja soovitus katsetada body konstrueerimist ka teiste aluspükste lõigetele. Lõputöö eesmärgiks oli arendada meeste triiksärgile body, et lahendada särgi pükstest välja tulemise probleem. Uuringute tulemused näitavad, et antud mudelid sobivad probleemi lahendamiseks, ning turul on ruumi probleemi lahendava toote jaoks.

Abstract [en]

A shirt has an important place in men’s wardrobe, but as the shirt wearers pace of life rises and the popularity of sportswear increases, the classical shirt’s practicality decreases. One of the problems is shirts manner of not staying nicely tucked into trousers while moving around, therefore the shirt has to be adjusted constantly. There are some solutions on the market to solve this problem, such as a shirt holder, but their availability is limited and downside of the product is that it must be manually attached to a shirt every time when being worn which can be time consuming and bothersome. It is a widespread method to add a body detail to the shirt to prevent it from protruding. For instance, this technique is used in clothes made for women and dancing. The same solution may also be suitable for preventing excessive movement of the men’s shirt. In this thesis, body suitability for men's shirt was tested out in two different models- first model “Body” made out of main fabric and second one called “Triko.body” made from hosiery. Using the Müller’s system, a base body construction based on a brief underwear model was created, necessary changes were added to match the details with the shirt, also corrections that came out of the samples fittings were added. 5 pieces of model "Body" and 2 pieces of model "Triko.body" were produced. The technology for manufacturing the products was based on technology and working methods used in OÜ Maidiga. Technological sequences of model processing were pointed out for mass production, during which it was found that both the "Body" and "Triko.body" models consist of 53 indivisible operations. During the production of the model "Body", time analysis of the line work was conducted, which concluded that working time for making this product is 50 minutes and 17 seconds. It requires 9 extra steps to produce the model “Body” which takes 8 minutes and 5 seconds longer than producing of the classical shirt does. Further, the cost of materials needed to manufacture the products was calculated and the result compared with the classical shirt., which demonstrated that the latter has the lowest material cost while most expensive model is “Body” and in between these two resides “Triko.body”. 46 In order to find out the market conditions and demand for the shirt with body detail, a consumer survey was conducted in which 37 male participants took part in. It turned out that a shirt can be found in all of the respondents wardrobe and 75.7% of them prefer to wear it tucked in trousers. Only two respondents have tried shirt holders, which means that for most of the respondents the problem of the protruding shirt has not been solved. The questionnaire did not clearly indicate whether potential customers would prefer model "Body" or "Triko.body". This may be due to the lack of knowledge of the respondents because it is hard for people to imagine the product’s suitability and comfort without trying the product on, since this solution hasn’t been used in the fast-fashion products for males. 50% of the respondents are interested of the product and 50% are not at the moment. In order to get more accurate feedback of the created models, test wearings were carried out involving 5 men. The results were positive, all participants found that this product would solve the protruding shirt problem and would be interested in buying the product in the future. In addition, testers gave feedback on what could be further developed, like the problem with the length of the product and the suggestion to test the body's possible suitability on other types of underwear. In conclusion, the goal of the thesis was to develop a body suitable for men's shirt to solve the protruding shirt probleem. The results of the studies show that models like „Body“ and „Triko.body“ are suitable in solving that problem. Also the market shows that there is room for a more efficient problem solving product.

Item Type: thesis
Advisor: Anu Tšistova
Subjects: Clothing and Textiles > Product Development
Divisions: Institute of Clothing and Textiles > Clothing Design and Technology
Depositing User: Kaidi Sannik
Date Deposited: 05 Jun 2019 10:28
Last Modified: 05 Jun 2019 10:28
URI: http://eprints.tktk.ee/id/eprint/4369

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