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Erinevate konstrueerimismeetodite abil pluusi lõigete valmistamine ettevõttele La Famiglia OÜ

Silm, Mall (2018) Erinevate konstrueerimismeetodite abil pluusi lõigete valmistamine ettevõttele La Famiglia OÜ. [thesis] [en] Making of Blouse Patterns using Different Methods of Construction for La Famiglia OÜ.

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Abstract

Lõputöö eesmärgiks oli valmistada pluus ettevõtte La Famiglia uude kollektsiooni. Tooteks saadi inspiratsiooni Ralf & Rosso varem valminud pluusist, mis oli kättesaadav pildiliselt. Toode oli kee-ruka soosiosaga ning selle tegemiseks tehti palju katsetusi, makette ja proove. Pluus pidi jääma suure vormiga, mahulise soosiosa voldistikuga ja samas naiselikuna. Esimene pluus valmis mulaaži teel atlasskangast, mis paraku kortsus palju, ei jäänud hoidma mahu-lisena ning soosiosa ei meenutanud just palju pildil olevat pluusi. Töö autori uudishimu ja töö autori ning disaineri erinevate visioonide tõttu tehti ka mudel Pluus 2, mille juures töö autor proovis valmistada pluusi, mille soosiosa oleks võimalikult sarnane inspirat-siooni pildil olevale. Esialgu sooviti katsetada moekohase lõike tegemist šabloonmeetodil, kuid töö käigus otsustati, et konstrueerimismeetodeid kombineeritakse: pluusi pihaosa tehti šabloonmeetodil ning soosiosa mulaažmeetodil. Näidise õmblemiseks kasutati kombineeritud sidusega kangast, mis ei kortsunud ja oli kerge. Kangaste analüüsi käigus selgus, et selliseid tooteid peaks valmistama just mittekortsuvast kangast ning atlass-sidusega kangas ei sobi taoliseks asjaks üldse ega jäta head muljet. Sellest tehti järeldus, et toote kangavalik võib väga palju mõjutada üldmuljet ning mittesobivat kangast kasutades ei ole võimalik soovitud efekti saavutada. Lõputöö sisaldab väikest kirjeldust ettevõttest, pluuside tehnilistest joonistest, kangaste ja furnituu-ride valikust, kahe pluusi lõike valmistamist ja tehnoloogiat. Samuti on tehtud paigutusjoonised ja analüüsitud kangakulu ning kangakasutuse efektiivsust. Välja on arvutatud pluuside oma- ja müü-gihinnad kasutades selleks sama põhimõtet, mille järgi ettevõte oma toodete hindasid kujundab. Viimases töö sisuosas on välja toodud järeldused ja ettepanekud, kuidas samu või sarnaseid tooteid tulevikus paremini valmistada. Kirjeldatud on ka mõned probleemid, mis töö tegemise käigus esi-nesid ja milliseid muudatusi lõigetel veel pärast pluuside valmimist tehti.

Abstract [en]

The aim of this theses – Making of Blouse Patterns using Different Methods of Construction for La Famiglia OÜ – was to develope blouse patterns for La Famiglia’s - a small sewing stuudio – new collection. Brand La Famiglia is owned by designer Riina Laanetu, whose style and design is very peculiar. For this blouse the inspiration came from picture of blouse brand Ralf & Rosso has made. Item has very tricky lower part for which reason there were made many mock-ups, tests and fittings. Blouse had to be in great shape, had to have voluminous lower foldings and at the same time it had to be feminine. The first shirt were made by moulding method and from satin weaved fabric, which wrinkled and didn’t stayed voluminous. Lower part didn’t remind the blouse from inspiration picture. Because of curiosity and different opinions between autor and designer about vision of blouse the student decided to make blouse that has lower part as similar as possible to the one in the picture. At first there were blouse patterns made by template method, but in middle of work discovery came out, that easier solution is to combin two pattern making methods: upper part of blouse were made using template method and lower part using mulage method. The second model were sewed of fabric that didn’t wrinkle and was light. During the analysis, it turned out that these kind of products have to be made of non-wrinkled fabrics and satinweaved aren’t suitable. Because of this, conclusions were made that fabric choices affect overall impression and by using unsuitable fabrics, it´s not possible to achieve required effect. Graduation thesis includes precise description of the company, technical drawings of blouses, choice of fabrics and furniture, pattern making and technology. Also, there are markers and analysed layout cost and efficiency. There is calculated cost and sale price by using the same system that company itself calculates. At last there are some conclusions and suggestions about how to make these kind of products better in the future. There were problems that appeared during making blouses and changes were made on patterns arter blouses were sewed.

Item Type: thesis
Advisor: Margit Kuusk
Subjects: Clothing and Textiles > Design
Clothing and Textiles > Design > Draping
Divisions: Institute of Clothing and Textiles > Clothing Design and Technology
Depositing User: Mall Silm
Date Deposited: 06 Jun 2018 07:05
Last Modified: 04 Sep 2019 11:01
URI: http://eprints.tktk.ee/id/eprint/3933

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