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Laste ülerõivaste pealikangaste kulunormid ja mustrilisa koefitsiendid

Kulbas, Kätlin (2017) Laste ülerõivaste pealikangaste kulunormid ja mustrilisa koefitsiendid. [thesis] [en] The Consumption Levels and Pattern Ratios of the Outer Shell of Children´s Outer Wear.

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Abstract

Lõputöös koostati kolmele mudelile: laste kombinesoonile „Romeo“, beebide jopele „Hugo“ ning laste komplektile „Remi“ kulunormide ja koefitsientide tabelid. Lisaks võrreldi omavahel ettevõtte, tootja ja autori puhtaid kulunorme ning selgitati välja, kui palju mõjutavad mustriraportid ning mustri rihtimine kangakulu. Selleks kõigeks oli vaja luua paigutusjoonised valitud mudelitele ja valitud kangastega ning seejärel tuli neid analüüsida ja tuua välja tähtsamad andmed. Eelkõige keskenduti töös parimate paigutuste koostamisele. Paigutusi tehes oli oluline pidada kinni paigutusreeglitest. Paigutused teostati kõigile kolmele mudelile viie erineva kangaga. Paigutusteks oli ühele mudelile välja valitud neli erinevate mustriraportitega kangast ning üks ühevärviline kangas. Mustrite puhul nagu „Safari“ ja „Grafiti“ teostati lisaks rihitud paigutusele ka rihtimata paigutus. Mõlema mustri puhul sai mõlemat paigutusviisi proovitud, et näha, kui palju on rihitava ja rihtimata paigutuse kangakulu. Tulemus oli etteaimatav. Teooriast oli teada, et rihtimisel kangakulu suureneb ning tõepoolest kangakulu suurenes. Seetõttu tasub alati võimalusel kangast mitte rihtida. Ettevõttelt saadud nende endi kulunormide arvutamise tabelid andsid informatsiooni, kuidas ettevõtte kulunorme arvutab ning mis mõjutab nende tulemusi. Ettevõtte kulunormide tabelid on väga informatiivsed, lähtudes näidismudelitelt saadavast teabest. Samuti on olulisel kohal kangalaius, mis määrab hiljem suuresti ära kangakulu suuruse. Kulunormide tabelites ei arvestata kanga mustritega, mustrilisa rihtimiseks lisatakse tabeli väliselt vaid mustrile „Lightning“. Ettevõtte poolt lisatakse mustrilisa mustrile „Lightning“ ning seda ka 30% saadud kangakulust. Lõputööst selgus, et nii suur lisa ei ole vajalik, piisab 5-6% mustrilisast. Mudelite koefitsientide tabelid võtavad hästi kokku selle, kuidas kangaste mustrid mõjutavad kanga pikkust. Tabelitest selgus, et rihtimisel kasvab kangakulu koguni 3%. Samuti selgus tabelitest, kui palju lähtuvalt mudelist tuleks kangamustrile kanga tellimisel lisa anda. Nagu eelnevalt mainitud, ettevõtte poolt 30% mustrilisa mustrile „Lightning“ on liiga suur, seega antud tabelitest leiab edaspidi igale mustrile sobiva lisa. Samuti saab tabelist vaadata palju muutub kangakulu sõltuvalt suurusest ja kangamustrist. Sellest tulenevalt selguski, et ühevärviline kangas „Solid“ ja mustriga kangas „Gerbera“ on kõige väiksemate mustrilisa koefitsientidega ning kangastele lisa ei pea arvestama. Tööst selgus ka, kui palju erinevad ettevõtte, tootja ning autori puhtad kulunormid teineteisest. Sellest tulenevalt tuli välja, et autori kulunormid on oluliselt väiksemad kui ettevõtte või tootja omad. Ainult „Romeo“ alaosa ning „Remi“ pükste puhul olid autori kulunormid veidi suuremad.

Abstract [en]

The main goal of this thesis is to create the tables of consumption levels and pattern ratios that would be used in calculating the amount of fabric needed and in ordering the material. In addition, it is researched what is the difference between the consumption levels calculated by the manufacturer compared to that of the cutting drawings and how much of the material consumption is influenced by pattern reports and patterns on material. Among other things it was found out how the consumption level is impacted and changes by the different sizes, width of the fabric and patterns used. The thesis was carried out in cooperation with company Huppa OÜ. Huppa is an international company that manufactures high quality, modern pattern and style outerwear for children. Three different models of Huppa’s winter collection were used as samples in this research. An overview is given regarding effective placement of models and it demonstrates the most successful ways of placing the models on material. The thesis primarily concentrated on creating the best lay plans. It was important to stick to the placement rules. Lay plans were done with five different materials and only basic sizes of French curves were used. It was important to place the models in a way that allowed the best consumption of material that put on the tables determine the pattern ratio for the material. That pattern ratio enables the manufacturer to calculate how much fabric is should be ordered in the future. Company and manufacturer calculates their consumption levels in numbers that provides it with approximate need of fabric. Therefore it was important to place the models on fabric for selected products in order to get more precise consumption level compared to the existing ones. The thesis provided an overview about the differences between the consumption levels of company, manufacturer and the author. The latter were considerably smaller than the consumption levels of the company or manufacturer. Moreover, the pattern reports influence the length of the fabric and the consumption level of the fabric increases 3 %. It was also found out how much additional fabric should be ordered based on the model.

Item Type: thesis
Advisor: Marika-My Laid
Co-advisor: Anu Tšistova
Subjects: Clothing and Textiles > Technology and Textile Science
Divisions: Institute of Clothing and Textiles > Clothing Design and Technology
Depositing User: Kätlin Kulbas
Date Deposited: 09 Jun 2017 13:08
Last Modified: 09 Jun 2017 13:08
URI: http://eprints.tktk.ee/id/eprint/3061

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