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Tallinna Munitsipaalpolitsei Ameti välivormi arendus

Zorina, Jekaterina; Valdman, Kristiina (2016) Tallinna Munitsipaalpolitsei Ameti välivormi arendus. [thesis] [en] The Development of the Tallinn Municipal Police Department’s Outdoor Uniform.

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Abstract

Lõputöö eesmärgiks oli luua uued välivormi mudelid Tallinna Munitsipaalpolitsei Ameti (MPA) töötajatele. Töö sai alguse Tallinna Tehnikakõrgkoolile esitatud tellimusest uuele välivormi kollektsioonile, kuhu kuulus 11 toodet: naiste ja meeste suvejope ja –püksid, naiste ja meeste talve-jope ja püksid, naiste ja meeste fliisid ning talvine kombinesoon. Ülesanne sai antud neljaliikmelisele meeskonnale, kellest kaks töötasid jopede ja fliiside arendamisega ja kaks pükste ning kombinesooni välja töötamisega, millele keskenduti käesolevas diplomitöös. Munitsipaalpolitsei Ametil oli soov välja vahetada senikasutusel olnud välivorm, kuna vana vorm ei rahuldanud enam töötajate vajadusi, olles vanamoeline ning puudujääkidega toote istuvuse ja materjalide osas. Tellija soov oli uuendada vormi nii väljanägemiselt kui funktsionaalsuselt. Käesoleva lõputöö näol oli tegemist tootearendusprojektiga, mille lähtepunktiks võeti töö kirjutamise hetkel kasutusel olnud töörõivad. MPA töötajate seas korraldati suuline küsitlus, mille käigus selgusid vana vormi puudused ja küsitlusel osalenute ootused uue vormi osas. Küsitluse tulemuste ja püstitatud lähteülesande põhjal loodi kavandid ning esitati MPA esindajatele, kellega koostöös valiti mudelid prototüüpide õmblemiseks. Prototüüpide õmblemiseks tuli valida sobivad materjalid, mis rahuldaks töötajate vajadusi ning mis arvestaks MPA töötajate tööspetsiifikat. Põhilised töörõivastele esitatavad tingimused tulenevad keskkonnast, kus tööd tehakse. Antud juhul tähendab see seda, et valitud materjalid peavad tagama töötaja optimaalse enesetunde ka välitingimustes. Arvestada tuleb nii vihma, tuule kui õhutemperatuuri kõikumistega. Samas on MPA välivormil ka esinduslik roll, mistõttu tuli materjali valimisel silmas pidada ka materjali sobivust ametirõivastuses. Tootmiseks valitud mudelite lõigete loomine algas käsitsi põhilõike konstrueerimisest, mille modelleerimisel saavutati esimesed moekohased tuletised. Saadud suvepükste lõige digiteeriti arvutisse, kus arendati lõiget edasi. Talvepükste lõige saadi suvepükste lõike nihutamisest ühe suurusnumbri võrra suuremaks, loomaks vajalik avarus vateeritud voodrile. Kombinesooni lõike saamiseks liideti talvejope ja talvepüksid, ühtlustades lõiked vööjoonel ning andes vajalikud lisad. Järgmises etapis töötati välja mudeli sõlmede tehnoloogiline töötlemine, mida tehti koostöös teise kahe meeskonnaliikmega, kes arendasid välja suve- ja talvejopesid ning fliise. Tehnoloogia valikul konsulteeriti praktikajuhendajaga ettevõttes, kus õmmeldi valmis prototüübid. Lõigete efektiivsemaks kasutamiseks ja juurdelõikuse kiiremaks teostamiseks tootmises valmistati lõigetest lekaalid. Selle protsessi käigus lisati lõigetele vajalikud õmblus- ja töötlemisvarud. Lekaalidele märgiti lõimesuund ning vastas- ja sisemärgid. Lekaalid tähistati lekaali koodiga, mis annab informatsiooni toote liigist kollektsioonis, kasutatavast materjalist ning detaili paiknemisest tootel. Järgnevalt loodi lõigetele paljundusskeemid, mille aluseks olid meeste ja naiste standardmõõtude tabelid. Tüüpfiguuri mõõtudest tehtud analüüsi tulemusena kujunesid lõigete suurendamise ja vähendamise põhimõtted ning pükste lõiked naistele suurustes 36-52 ja meestele suurustes 48-62. Lisaks loodi paljundusskeem ka erinevatele kasvudele, naistele kolm erinevat kasvu ja meestele neli erinevat kasvu. Ühe toote keskmise kangakulu teada saamiseks tehti kangakulu arvestus kombineeritud paigutuste näol. Ühele joonisele paigutati mudeli kõige suurem ja kõige väiksem suurus, mõlemad kõige pikema kasvuga, et saada tulemus, mis võiks olla kõige efektiivsem. Paigutusjoonised koostati põhimaterjalile ja voodrile. Viimase etapina kontrolliti valmistoodete mõõtude vastavust lõikega. Võrdlus tehti valmisõmmeldud näidistoodete põhjal olulisemate laius- ja pikkusmõõtudega ning toodi välja lubatud kõrvalekalle lõike mõõdu suhtes. Lõputöö tulemusena valmis kogu neljaliikmelise meeskonna peale uus Munitsipaalpolitsei Ameti välivormi kollektsioon 11 mudeliga. Valmisõmmeldud prototüübid lähevad testkandmisele, mille põhjal selgitatakse välja loodud mudelite sobivus nii kasutatud materjalide ja tehnoloogia kui ka lõikelise lahenduse poolest.

Abstract [en]

The current thesis began when the Faculty of Clothing and Textile at the Tallinn University of Applied Sciences received an order for a new outdoor uniform collection, placed by the Tallinn Municipal Police Department. The initial task was to improve and renew Municipal Police’s outdoor uniform by creating a new collection consisting of 11 separate pieces: men’s and women’s summer jacket and trousers, men’s and women’s winter jacket and trousers, in addition men’s and women’s fleece jacket and a winter overall. The task was given to a team of four students who were devided into two smaller groups. The first group concentrated on both summer and winter jackets as well as fleece jackets. The responsibility of the elaboration of summer and winter trousers and winter overall lay with the other half of the team - the team that is introducing the work they have performed in regards of the inital order in this thesis. Tallinn Municipal Police Department (MPD) is a Tallinn city authority and a law enforcement unit. Municipal Police Department’s tasks include participating in guaranteeing public order in the institutions and at the public events of the City of Tallinn. [1] The aim of this thesis was to develope the existing MPD’s outdoor uniform into a modern model with improved properties. The authors’ idea was to maintain the advantages and to eliminate the disadvantages of the old uniform. The diploma thesis consists of two parts: the written part and the practical part of sewing the prototypes. The written part aims to give a detailed overview of the work that has been carried out. The written part has been devided into topics in a chronological order of the product development process. The customer’s wish was to replace the existing outdoor uniform with a new one, since the old uniform did not meet up to the workers expectations any longer. The old uniform had become oldfashioned with defaults in fit and material. The garments were to be upgraded in terms of both appearance and functionality. An oral inquiry was held among the employees of the MPD and the thoughts and opinions gathered. A thorough analyses of the received answers led to the creation of numerous sketches which were then presented to the MPD. In collaboration with the representatives of the organization the final designs to be sewn as prototypes were picked. After having decided on the final designs the right materials had to be chosen. The main requirements for the materials were based on the nature of work. As these clothes were worn outside, different weather conditions had to be considered. What is more, as the employees of the MPD have a represantitive role of their organization, the right looks of the material was important. The pattern creation of the designs in question started with creating the basic patterns which were then developed into custom patterns. The first custom pattern as in the pattern of the summer trousers was first done in hand and then digitalized for the Modaris patternmaking program. The pattern of the winter trousers was received by shifting the pattern of the summer pants towards a bigger size by one level, so that the measurements of e.g size 40 of summer trousers would match with the measurements of the size 38 of winter trousers. The pattern of the winter overall was received as a result of combining the pattern of men’s winter jacket and winter trousers. The technology of sewing the apparels was developed in a collaboration with the other half of the team at a sewing company called Meritik OÜ where the prototypes of this thesis were eventually sewn aswell. The internship supervisor helped the team to create a technology that would fit with the forms of industrial manufacturing as that would be the way these designs would be produced in the future. In order to improve the sufficiency of using the patterns during the producing process, the patterns were given an industrial form. Patterns were supplemented with seam allowances, warp direction and other necessary inner marks. The patterns were then given a grading system which was developed from the analyses of the German standard measurements. In addition, in order to be able to calculate the average need of the material in a production, combined layout drawings with the biggest and the smallest sizes were created. Lastly, the measurements of the patterns were compared with the measurements of the prototypes to evaluate the change of the measurements during the producing process. As a result of this thesis and the developmental work of the four-student team a new Tallinn Municipal Police Department’s outdoor uniform collection with 11 separate pieces was created. The prototypes that were sewn during the project are going to be tested by the employees of MPD in real life in order to find out the qualities of the created designs in terms of both materials, sewing technology and the fit of the patterns.

Item Type: thesis
Advisor: Margit Kuusk
Subjects: Clothing and Textiles > Product Development
Divisions: Institute of Clothing and Textiles > Clothing Design and Technology
Depositing User: Jekaterina Zorina
Date Deposited: 03 Jun 2016 06:00
Last Modified: 03 Jun 2016 06:00
URI: http://eprints.tktk.ee/id/eprint/2478

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