TTK Links: Home Page | TTK Moodle | ÕIS
TTK/UAS Repository For Digital Teaching and Learning Resources

Naiste töörõivad

Aksalu, Karolin (2016) Naiste töörõivad. [thesis] [en] Women's workwear.

[img] PDF - Published Version
Restricted to Registered users only

Download (5MB)
[img] PDF (lihtlitsents) - Supplemental Material
Restricted to Registered users only

Download (113kB)

Abstract

Käesoleva lõputöö tulemusena valmisid naiste töörõivaste esimesed prototüübid. Lõputöö koosneb kirjalikust osast ning toodetest. Töö on ülesehitatud kahele peatükile, millest esimene kajastab mudelite kavandamist ning teine konstruktsiooni ja tehnoloogiat. Lõputöö esimeses osas tutvustatakse kõiki kolme toodet. Vastavalt mudeli kavandamise tingimustele kavandati kokku 12 mudelit- neli jaki, neli pükste ja neli kombinesooni. Kollektsiooni valiti igast ühest üks- jakk „Emma“, püksid „Margot“ ja kombinesoon „Emily“. Mudelitele valmistati tehnilised kirjeldused ja joonised, iseloomustati põhi- ja abimaterjale. Jaki põhimaterjaliks valiti 100% polüester membraanita softshell-kangas, pükste ja kombinesooni 65% polüestrit ning 35% puuvilla sisaldav töörõivaste kangas. Lisaks kasutati teise põhimaterjalina põlvekohtadel ja allääres tugevat 100% polüamiidist materjali. Teine peatükk käsitleb konstruktsiooni ja tehnoloogiat. Jaki ja pükste põhilõiked konstrueeriti baassuurusele 38 ja kasvule 168. Lõigete valmistamiseks kasutati M. Müller & Sohn konstrueerimise metoodikat ning Saksa standardi mõõtude tabelit. Tehniliste jooniste järgi modelleeriti moekohased lõiked. Kombinesoon kombineeriti kokku jaki ning pükste moekohastest lõigetest. Pärast makettide õmblemist ja proovi viidi sisse parandused lõigetel. Seejärel digiteeriti lõiked ning kontrolliti õmbluste pikkuseid, vastasmärkide sobivusi, kaarte sujuvusi jne. Tabelina on välja toodud läbilõiked toodete keerulisematest sõlmedest. Koostatud on lekaalide loetelu, mis annab ülevaate lekaalide arvust vastavalt mudelile. Põhidetailidele on antud programmis Modaris tehniline paljundus, suurustes 36-44 ja kasvudes 152-184, mis on välja toodud paljundusskeemidena. Igale mudelile tehti paigutusjoonis, et kindlaks teha kangakulu ja kanga kasutamise efektiivsus. Figuurimõõtudele vastavuse kontrollimiseks tehti prototüübi valmistoote mõõtude tabel, millel on välja toodud joonis mõõtmiskoha skeemiga ja kirjeldusega, et mõõtmine oleks üheti mõistetav. Nii jakile, pükstele kui ka kombinesoonile valmistati tootekaardid, kus on välja toodud mudelite õmblemiseks vajalik informatsioon. Pärast esimeste prototüüpide valmimist tuleb teha veel parendusi, et tooted kliendile veelgi parimaks muuta. Jaki ja kombinesooni varrukale tuleks lisada küünarnukijoonele läbilõige, et varrukas paremini istuks. Kombinesooni põlvekohad viia paar sentimeetrit allapoole, et põlved oleksid paremini kaetud. Samuti tuleks ka kombinesiooni alläär ja värvel teha sirgeks, kuna figuurseid detaile on väga keeruline õmmelda.

Abstract [en]

As the result of the final paper the first prototypes of women’s working clothes are prepared. The final paper includes a written part and the products. The paper comprises two chapters: the first one reflects the preparation of the designs and the second one the construction and technology. The first part of the final paper presents all the three products. According to the requirements altogether 12 designs are made including four jackets, four pairs of trousers and four overalls. The collection is made up of one piece from each category – jacket “Emma”, trousers “Margot” and overalls “Emily”. Technical descriptions and drawings are made for each design; the basic and accessory materials are described. The basic material of the jacket is 100% polyester softshell fabric, trousers and overalls are sewn of special working clothes fabric made of 65% of polyester and 35% of cotton. In addition to the basic material the durable 100% polyamide is used at knee line and lower edges. The second chapter discusses the construction and technology. The basic cuttings of the jacket and the trousers are constructed for the basic size of 38 and height 168cm. The cuttings are made according to M. Müller & Sohn construction method and the table of German standard sizes. According to technical drawings fashionable cuttings are designed. The overalls are combined of fashionable cuttings of the jacket and the trousers. After sewing and trying on the designs, cuttings are improved. Thereafter, the cuttings are digitalised and the length of the seams, the compatibility of opposite marking and the evenness of curves, etc. are checked. The table comprises cross sections of the more complicated nodes of the product. The list of templates is prepared, giving an overview of the number of templates per design. The basic details are presented as technical multiplication schemes in program Modaris, in sizes 36-44 and for heights 152-184 and presented as multiplication schemes. Each design has a layout drawing that enables to find out the need for fabric and the efficiency of the use of the fabric. In order to check the conformity of figure sizes, a table of ready-made prototype sizes is made, including the drawings of the scheme and the description of measuring point to ensure that measuring is always unambiguous. Product cards, including all necessary information for sewing the product, are made for the jacket, trousers and overalls. After the first prototypes are ready, it is necessary to make improvements to make the products more compliable for the client. A cut has to be added to the sleeve at the elbow line of the jacket and the overall to make the sleeve fit better. The knee line of the overall has to be lowered some centimetres to cover the knees better. The lower edge of the overall has to be straight because sewing a figurative detail is too complicated.

Item Type: thesis
Advisor: Margit Kuusk
Subjects: Clothing and Textiles > Product Development
Divisions: Institute of Clothing and Textiles > Clothing Design and Technology
Depositing User: Karolin Aksalu
Date Deposited: 13 Jun 2016 12:37
Last Modified: 13 Jun 2016 12:37
URI: http://eprints.tktk.ee/id/eprint/2395

Actions (login required)

View Item View Item