TTK Links: Home Page | TTK Moodle | ÕIS
TTK/UAS Repository For Digital Teaching and Learning Resources

Langevarjutunkede välja töötamine

Seo, Liisa; Kinkar, Mari (2015) Langevarjutunkede välja töötamine. [thesis] [en] Development of Skydiving Jumpsuits.

[img]
Preview
PDF - Published Version
Download (4MB) | Preview
[img]
Preview
PDF (lihtlitsents) - Supplemental Material
Download (838kB) | Preview

Abstract

Käesoleva diplomitöö käigus on kavandatud Sõjaväe Langevarjuklubile kaitserõivad langevarjuhüpete sooritamiseks. Kavandati kokku kaheksa mudelit, millest neli oli meestele ja neli naistele. Välja otsustati töötada üks meeste ja üks naiste mudel. Mudelitele valmistati tehnilised kirjeldused ja joonised, iseloomustati välja valitud materjale; konstrueeriti baas- ja moekohased lõiked; valiti mudeli töötlemiseks sobivad tehnoloogiad; arvestati materjalide kulu ning koostati tehniline dokumentatsioon. Vastavalt mudeli kavandamise tingimustele valiti langevarjutunkede välja töötamiseks töörõivaste materjal. Musta põhimaterjali koostis on 60% puuvilla ja 40% polüestrit, kollase põhimaterjali koostis on aga 100% puuvilla. Liikumisvabadust andvate kehaosa küljedetailide, varrukasuu ja krae materjaliks valiti veniv trikotaaž, mille koostis on 85% puuvilla ja 15% elastaani. Naiste tunkede lõigete valmistamisel on kasutatud M. Müller & Sohn konstrueerimise metoodikat (baassuurus 38 – S) ning meeste tunkede metoodika on pärit Gareth Kershaw “Pattern cutting for menswear“ raamatust (baassuurus 48 – M). Tehniliste jooniste järgi on moodustatud põhilõigetest moekohased lõiked. Valminud lõigetest tehti lekaalid ning koostati tehniline paljundus suurustele SXL. Kirjeldati lekaalide paljundamise reegleid ning iseärasusi. Langevarjutunkede tehnoloogilise töötlemise valikul võeti eeskuju töörõivaste tehnoloogiast ning seda on kirjeldatud läbilõikejooniste abil. Erinevaid töötlemisvarusid näitavad ka lekaalide joonised. Keskmise kangakulu leidmiseks ühele mudelile koostati kombineeritud paigutusjoonised naiste ja meeste mudelile eraldi. Samuti arvestati välja niidikulu, mõõtes ära toodete erinevate õmbluste pikkused ning korrutades need vastava piste tüübi koefitsiendiga. Abimaterjalide kulu baasmudelitele on antud tabelina. Tehnilise kirjeldiuse osas toodi välja mudelite tootekaardid ning valmistoote mõõtude tabelid, millel on välja toodud joonised mõõtmiskoha kirjelduste ja skeemidega, et mõõtmine oleks üheti mõistetav. Töö organseerimise osas toodi välja mudelite töötlemise tehnoloogilised järjestused. Majandusosas kirjeldati lühidalt mudelite hinna kujunemist. Diplomitööle on lisatud fotod valmis õmmeldud baassuuruste mudelitest.

Abstract [en]

Development of Skydiving Jumpsuits For the present thesis, the authors have designed skydiving jumpsuits for the Army Parachute Club. Altogether eight models were designed, four for men and four for women. One model for men and one for women was chosen to be worked with further. In the current paper, the authors give technical descriptions and make drawings, characterise the chosen fabrics, draft basic and fashion patterns, select suitable techniques to make the models, calculate fabric expenditure, and compile technical documentation. Based on the terms of the models’ design, work clothes fabric was chosen to make the jumpsuits. The black main fabric consists of 60 % cotton and 40 % polyester, whereas the yellow main fabric is 100 % cotton. For side details, end of the sleeves and collar, which give freedom of movement, the chosen material is stretchy jersey fabric that consists of 85 % cotton and 15 % elastane. For the women’s jumpsuit, the authors use M. Müller & Sohn’s constructing methodology (basic size 38 - S), and the methodology used in making the men’s jumpsuit is taken from Gareth Kershaw’s “Pattern Cutting for Menswear” (basic size 48 – M). Fashion patterns are derived from the basic pattern block in accordance with technical drawings. Based on these patterns, the authors have drafted patterns with seam allowance and graded them to sizes S-XL. In addition, the rules and special features of grading are described. The technology used in making work clothes was taken as an example when deciding upon the technological processing and it is described with the help of sectional drawings. Various seam allowances are also shown in patterns with seam allowances. In order to find out the average fabric expenditure for one model, combined pattern layouts were drafted separately for the women’s and men’s jumpsuit model. Also, the amount of thread was calculated by measuring the lengths of different types of seams and multiplying the result by the coefficient of the corresponding stitch. The quantity of supplementary materials for the base models is presented in a table. In the technical description part, the authors present the product cards for the models as well as tables showing the measurements of the final products which include descriptions and drawings of measuring in order to make it clear. In the work description part, the technological sequences of making the models are brought out. In the section regarding economical aspects, the price formulation of the final product is briefly described. Photos of completed basic size models are added to the thesis.

Item Type: thesis
Advisor: Katrin Pikknurm
Co-advisor: Teele Peets
Subjects: Clothing and Textiles > Technology and Textile Science > Sewing Technology
Divisions: Institute of Clothing and Textiles > Clothing Design and Technology
Depositing User: Liisa Seo
Date Deposited: 11 Jun 2015 06:32
Last Modified: 11 Jun 2015 06:32
URI: http://eprints.tktk.ee/id/eprint/1483

Actions (login required)

View Item View Item