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"24Expressile kavandatud meeste tööjakid"

Oja, Liliann (2015) "24Expressile kavandatud meeste tööjakid". [thesis] [en] "Men’s Workwear Jackets for 24Express” .

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Abstract

Lõputöös kavandati ja valmistati transpordiettevõttele 24Express töötajatele viis tööjakki. Valminud viis jakki on kvaiteetsest, vastupidavast materjalist ja vastavad töökaitse nõuetele. Selleks pidi arvestama ettevõtte imogoloogiaga ja töörõivastele esitatavate kindlate nõudmistega. Toodete valmistamiseks on valitud kvaliteetsed ja mitmekülgsete heade omadustega Windstopper Soft Shell® kangad. Windstopper Soft Shell ® on tuulekindel, õhuläbilaskev, laseb liikuda ja on vetthülgav. Furnituurideks on valitud kauakestvad ja kõrgkvaliteetsed YKK lukud. Kõik selleks, et tagada transpordi alal töötavale meesterahvale mugavuse. Mudelite saamiseks on algselt konstrueeritud põhilõige, kasutades Mülleri „Meeste jope põhilõike” juhendit, mille peale modeleeritud moekohohane lõige. Esmaste lõigete alusel on tehtud maketid. Maketiproovis tehtud muudatused tehakse ka lõigetele, mis peale korrigeerimist digiteeriktakse Lektra arvutiprogrammi Modaris. Antud programmis saab veel lõikeid kohandada ja kontrollida omavahelisi kokkuminekuid. Lõigetele pannakse õmblusvarud, pannakse peale suurendused ja väendused ning tehakse lekaalide tabel. Lekaalid viiakse Diaminosse, kus toimub vastavalt soovitud kangale ja suurusele lekaalide paigutus. Diaminost Just Printi viies saab lekaalid Plotterist välja printida. Koostatud on mudeli „Erik” lekaalid õmblusvarude tähistusega, mis on materjalide kaupa välja toodud. Mudeli „Erki” lekaalidega on tehtud ka paljundusskeem, kus on suurused 48- 56. Lekaalide tähistuse mõistmiseks, kombineeritud paigutuste,l on koostatud ka lekaalide tabelid mudelite kaupa. Igale mudelile on koostatud tootekaardid, millele lisatakse ettevõtte poolt nüüd tellimusleht koguste ja tarneajaga. Tootemõõtude tablis selgus, et mudelid on valmiskujul erinevate suurustega võrreldes tüüpfiguuri tabliga. Ilmselt muutused tekkisid ka peale maketiproove tehes. Arvestada tuli kõigi erinevate kehaehitustega individuaalselt. Paigutusjooniste abil sai arvutada viie mudeli ja mudeli „Erik” materjali maksumuse. Antud makusumsed on olulised arvutamaks ka mõlema viisi omahinna ja lõpphinna. Arvutuste käigus selgus, et suureks kuluallikaks on õmblusteenuse pakkuja, mis on viie kordselt õmblusmaterjalidest kallim. Hind on kallim kuna tegemist on näidistoote õmblemisega, mitte masstootmisega. Mudeli „Erik” toote omahinnaks kujunes 165,06 € ja müügihind 247,59 €. Viie mudeli omahinnaks tuli 760,66 € ja müügihinnaks lausa 1140,98 €, millest pea pool koosneb õmblusteenuse hinnast. Ettevõtte on väga rahul kangaste ja furnituuride valikuga. Värvid vastavad samuti ettevõtte poolsetele tingimustele. Samuti olid ettevõtte juhatus ja töötajad rahul sellega, et jakid on mitme näolised ja mugavad.

Abstract [en]

The aim of this diploma thesis “Men’s Workwear Jackets for 24Express” was to develop work wear for the logistics company 24Express. It all started a with fleece jacket prototype model “Erkki” that I made as a project for my patternmakingcourse. Improvements were made to the above-mentioned model to form the base model “Erik” that also features new base fabrics and fasteners. The company’s wish was to have jackets that satisfy occupational health and safety requirements using long lasting high quality materials and considering the company’s publicity and logo. It was also necessary to take into account the build and personal requests of every man who is to wear the model. This is how unified models “Andres”, “Janno”, “Johannes”, and “Riho” were created. The products are made of high quality andversatile Windstopper Soft Shell® materials. Zippers were selected from YKK Company which offers high quality and long lasting products. All this was to ensure the comfort of the staff working in logistics. For the first model a base pattern was drawn usingMüller’s instructions for “Men’s coat base pattern” instructions upon which a trend pattern* was constructed. Test models were created based on the preliminary patterns. All changes that are made in fittings are carried on to patterns.After making corrections the patterns are digitised into the Lectras computer program Modaris. The patterns can be further improved and the way they fit together checked using the program. The patterns are given seam allowances, sizes, and a pattern chart. Then the patterns are transferred to Diamino where they are placed onto the requested fabric in the right size. With the use of Plotter the patterns can be printed off from Diamino. The descriptions of the model “Erik” are found in a chart: patterns for different fabrics and sizes from 48 to 56. Pattern charts have also been created for individual models for better understanding of combined pattern placing on fabrics. A product chart has been made for each model to which an order from the company featuring amounts and delivery time will be added in the future. The model size chart shows that the sizes of the finished product differ from typefigure chart sizes.The differences presumably came from changes made in test model fittings’s In the thesis “Men’s Workwear Jackets For 24 Express” I have shown how I designed the models, composed the patterns and the technology. By pattern placing on fabrics the net value and sale price of the model “Erik” and all five models is calculated. And it appears that it is cheaper to deal with the five models together and that the biggest expenditure is the sewing service.

Item Type: thesis
Advisor: Teele Peets
Subjects: Clothing and Textiles > Design
Clothing and Textiles > Design > Kaledo - Apparel Design Program
Clothing and Textiles > Design > Patternmaking
Divisions: Institute of Clothing and Textiles > Clothing Design and Technology
Depositing User: Liliann Oja
Date Deposited: 11 Jun 2015 06:26
Last Modified: 11 Jun 2015 06:26
URI: http://eprints.tktk.ee/id/eprint/1399

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