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Trikotaažist imagorõivaste väljatöötamine

Tänav, Tea (2015) Trikotaažist imagorõivaste väljatöötamine. [thesis] [en] Development of jersey image wear.

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Abstract

Lõputöö eesmärgiks oli valmistada kliendi nõuetele vastavad tooted nii ettevõtte Ignite töötajatele kui ka klientidele. Töö käigus loodi nii naiste kui ka meeste kapuutsiga dressipluusi otsaõmmeldud varrukaga baasmudelid ja raglaanlõikelised baasmudelid, mida saab rakendada ka edaspidistes projektides. Töö esimeses osas tutvustati lühidalt loodavate toodete ajalugu ning kirjeldati Eesti kaubanduses hetkel kättesaadavaid dressipluuside tüüplahendusi. Järgnevalt tutvustati kliendi nõudeid toodetele ning loodi mudelite kollektsioon. Tutvustati kangaste valikut ning määrati tellimuse maht. Teises osas kirjeldati valitud konstrueerimise metoodikat, rakendatavaid figuurimõõte ning arvutuslikke mõõte, põhilõigete ja moekohaste lõigete konstrueerimist. Kirjeldati lõigete kontrollimise metoodikat nii naiste kui meeste mudelitel. Töö kolmas osa kajastas lekaalide valmistamise protsessi – originaallekaalide loetelu ja tehnilist paljundust. Neljas peatükk keskendus tootmiseks kuluvate materjalide kulu normeerimisele. Selle peatüki alla kuulus kanga ja niidi ning furnituuride kulu arvestus. Kangakulu arvestamiseks teostati tellimuse mahule vastavad paigutusjoonised kõikidele kasutatud kangastele. Toote tehnoloogilisele kirjeldamisele pühendati viies peatükk. Peatükis oli esitatud tehnoloogiliste sõlmede läbilõikejoonised ning valmistoote mõõtude tabelid. Samuti kirjeldati dokumente, mis on vajalikud tootmises protsessi kirjeldamiseks. Töö viimane peatükk keskendus õmblusprotsessis rakendatavate seadmete tutvustamisele ning töö organiseerimise kirjeldamisele õmblusprotsessi operatsioonide kaupa. Töö käigus loodavate mudelite suurimaks takistuseks kujunes kanga valik. Kuna tegumoodidel oli rakendatud väga spetsiifilisi ettevõtte logol esinevaid värvitoone, kujunes õigete värvitoonide leidmine kõige ajamahukamaks protsessiks. Konstruktsiooni käigus esitas suurimaid katsumusi raglaanlõikelise varruka lõike kujundamine, mis vastaks ka kehaosade raglaanõmbluse pikkusele.

Abstract [en]

The purpose of this paper was to develop products for the workers and clients of Ignite that would fit the clients’ needs and demands. Both female and male hoodie base patterns were developed for both the classic set-in sleeves and raglan sleeves. The developed base patterns can be used in other upcoming projects. The first part of the paper introduced the history of the products developed in this paper and also described the main two types of hoodies currently available in the Estonian market. After that, the demands of the client were introduced and a collection of designs was developed. The choice of the materials was introduced and the size of the order was determined. The second part of the paper focused on describing the methods used for constructing the patterns, the figure measurements and calculated measurements used in the process, the development of the base and custom patterns. The method of checking and altering is described for both female and male patterns. The third part of the paper described the process of pattern blocking and grading. The fourth chapter focused on calculating the cost of materials needed for production. The costs of fabric, thread and notions were calculated based on the order size. Marker drawings were created for each of the used fabrics. The fifth chapter was dedicated to the technical description of the products. Sectional drawings of the different elements of the products and the final sizes measurement tables were displayed in this chapter, along with descriptions of supplementary documents created to support the production process. The last chapter of the paper focused on introducing the sewing and pressing machines used in the production, as well as describing the sewing process in detail. The selection of fabric was the biggest hurdle in the process of creating the products. Since the colors were very specific and came from the company logo, it took a while to find the correct colors. The most challenging part of patternmaking was developing the raglan cut sleeve base patterns that would perfectly match the body pieces.

Item Type: thesis
Advisor: Teele Peets
Subjects: Clothing and Textiles > Design
Divisions: Institute of Clothing and Textiles > Clothing Design and Technology
Depositing User: Tea Tänav
Date Deposited: 11 Jun 2015 06:07
Last Modified: 11 Jun 2015 06:07
URI: http://eprints.tktk.ee/id/eprint/1333

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